All Yarn Is Not Created Equal

Yarn is used in many different crafts and there are scores of different varieties available to choose from. Depending on what you want to create, it can be overwhelming to know what yarn to choose for the project.  

All yarn is made from natural or synthetic fibers or a combination of the two. Different types of yarn fibers have specific qualities and are often blended to take advantage of various characteristics

When choosing a yarn type for your crafting, project, it helps to understand the differences:

Fibers

• Wool Fiber:  Wool is made from fleece which as you probably know comes from the shearing of sheep but is also obtained from certain other animals including  goats (cashmere and mohair),  rabbits (angora),  muskoxen (qiviut),  Alpaca (a tiny cousin of the llama producing alpaca), and other types of wool from camelids like llamas. Wool is a popular choice in crochet and knitting projects.  As you can see there are many types of wool and below are some distinctions to be aware of:

• Lambswool:  The main distinction of this wool is that it is from the first shearing of a lamb   It is very soft, elastic, and slippery.   Lambswool tends to drape and hold its shape better.  It contains lanolin, which has antibacterial properties and an incredible warmth-to-weight ratio provides warmth while wicking moisture away from your skin thanks to naturally occurring moisture repellant properties.

• Merino wool: This is considered the finest of wool. While lambswool can come from any species of sheep, merino wool is only the wool that comes from a merino sheep. Not all merino is created equal, however. The grade of Merino is based on the diameter of the follicle of the wool. The smaller the number, the softer and more expensive the wool. Many people will tell you that cashmere is the top of the line in textile yarns but it is no match to ultrafine merino which has no equal. 
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  Compared to Lambswool, Merino is thinner, cooler, and tends to have less pilling (small balls of fuzz/fibers that forms on a piece of fabric) and is finely crimped and soft. It is excellent at regulating body temperature, especially when worn against the skin providing some warmth, without overheating the wearer and wicking moisture (sweat) away from the skin. Like most wools, merino contains lanolin, which has antibacterial properties. Merino has an excellent warmth-to-weight ratio compared to other wools, in part because the smaller fibers have microscopic cortices of air, which traps body heat similar to the way a sleeping bag warms its occupant.

• Shetland wool: This wool is made from the small and hardy native sheep of Scotland’s Shetland Islands. Shetlands produce numerous shades of wool colors and is often used un-dyed. Tweed is also produced from the coarser Shetland wool.  It is a coarser, rougher wool and typically used in its natural state which has a rustic charm but can be itchy and scratchy worn directly against the skin.

• Icelandic wool: The wool of the Iceland Sheep is unique.  From a sheep that has evolved over 1100 years of exposure in the sub-Arctic climate, Icelandic wool has developed a distinctive combination of fibers not found anywhere else. The outer fibers are long, glossy, tough and water repellant, while the inner ones are fine, soft and insulating, which provides a high resistance to cold. This is a rustic, soft yarn which is warm, water repellant, lightweight, breathable and odor resistant.

• Pure new wool/virgin wool: Some people mistake this for lambswool however it is a term that refers to wool that is being processed or woven for the first time as opposed to  recycled wool which is made by cutting or tearing apart existing wool fabric and res-pinning the  fibers.

• Washable wool: Has been treated to destroy the outer fuzzy layer of fibers.  

•          Other Fleece Fibers:
  

  
  

  Cashmere: Cashmere comes from goats living in the high and dry plateaus surrounding the Gobi Desert of Mongolia and China. It is also known as pashm (Persian for wool) or pashmina. The fleece cones from the downy undercoat of soft hair beneath their coarse exterior coat, with hairs are extremely sleek, soft, warm and silky. The ultra-fine fiber is a premium fiber - and generally costs a good deal more than most sheep's wool. It has a fine, soft texture and is strong yet lightweight.  Items  made from cashmere provide excellent insulation but have a tendency to shrink loose shape in not cared for properly.

  
  
  

   Mohair: This yarn comes from the hair of the Angora goat The word "mohair" is an adaptation of an Arabic word, mukhayyar, meaning haircloth.  It has great insulating properties, warm in winter while remaining cool in summer due to its moisture wicking properties. It is durable, naturally elastic, flame resistant, crease resistant, and does not felt. It is also considered to be a luxury fiber, like cashmere and is usually more expensive. The quality of mohair is dependent on the age of the animal. The fine hair from young animals is used for finer items like clothing, and the thicker hair from older goats is often used for carpets and outerwear. 

  
  
  
  

  Angora: Angora from the Angora rabbit is valued for its silky, soft, thin texture, and halo (fluffiness).   It is much warmer and lighter than wool due to the hollow core of the angora fiber which also gives its characteristic floating feel. It felts very easily, even on the animal itself, if it is not frequently brushed. Angora is commonly used in sweaters and other clothing, and felted projects.

  
  
  
  

  Alpaca: Alpacas resemble a small llama and are raised specifically for their fiber.  Their fleece is lustrous and silky similar to sheep’s wool  but warmer and not prickly. It contains no lanolin, which makes it hypoallergenic but does not repel water.  Alpaca fiber is also flame-resistant which in addition to its other properties makes it suitable for a wide variety of items including sweaters, hats, gloves, scarves and blankets.

  
  
  
  

  Qiviut: An Inuit word sometimes spelled qiveut, qiviiut is the the wool of the muskox.Muskoxen have a dual coat, and qiviut refers specifically to the soft underwool beneath the longer outer wool. The muskox sheds this inner layer in the spring. The qiviut is not sheared like sheep, it is plucked from the coat of the muskox during the molt or gathered from objects the animals have brushed against. It is can be dyed but bleaching and dyeing can weaken the fiber and reduce its softness so it is often used in its natural color. Though not as well known, it is among the softest wools. Qiviut is stronger and eight times warmer than sheep wool, and softer than cashmere. It is very expensive; a high quality knitted scarf can cost several hundred dollars but can last more than 20 years if properly cared for.

• Silk Fiber:   A natural protein fiber obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm. Silk has a smooth, soft texture that is not slippery, unlike many synthetic fibers. It is also one of the strongest natural fibers but loses up to 20% of its strength when wet . Its elasticity is moderate to poor: if elongated even a small amount, it remains stretched. It can be weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. It is also attractive to insects such as moths.

• Cotton Fiber:   A soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll which is a protective capsule around the seeds of cotton plants. The fiber is almost pure cellulose and produces yarn that is soft, breathable, and highly absorbent but has the drawback of high initial shrinkage.

•  Linen Fiber:   Harvested from the flax plant, linen is smooth, lint-free, and gets softer the more it is washed.  It is a very durable and strong and one of the few fibers that are stronger wet than dry. The fibers do not stretch and are resistant to damage from abrasion. However it has a very low elasticity and will eventually break if it is folded and ironed at the same place repeatedly. Mildew, perspiration, and bleach can also damage the fibers, but linen is resistant to insects. it resists dirt and stains, has no lint or pilling tendency, and can be dry-cleaned, machine-washed or steamed. It can withstand high temperatures, and has only moderate initial shrinkage.

• Rayon Fiber:  Rayon is debated as to whether it is a natural or synthetic. It is a manufactured regenerated cellulose fiber derived from a natural cellulose so it is neither a truly synthetic fiber nor a natural fiber. Call it what you will, rayon is a versatile fiber and has the same comfort properties as natural fibers. It can imitate the feel and texture of silk, wool, cotton and linen. The fibers are easily dyed in a wide range of colors. Rayon fabrics are soft, smooth, cool, comfortable, and highly absorbent, but they do not insulate body heat, making them ideal for use in hot and humid climates.

• Other Natural Fibers: Other plant fibers which can be spun include bamboo, hemp, corn, nettle, and soy fiber.

• Synthetic: These include nylon, acrylic, and polyester. Synthetic fibers are made from synthesized polymers from raw materials such as petroleum based chemicals or petrochemicals.  They are generally cheaper than natural fiber. They are insect and flame resistant can be made to resemble other more expensive natural fibers and can possess unique characteristics. They are however not moisture repellant,  do not provide much warmth and can be extremely hazardous to the environment.

Colors

Yarn comes in many colors It may be used undyed, or may be colored with natural or artificial dyes. Most yarns have a single uniform hue, but there is also a wide selection of variegated yarns:

• Heathered : Blended from a number of different-colored or dyed fleeces, and then spun.

• Tweed: Has a single background color with flecks of different colored fibers.

• Ombre: Variegated yarn with light and dark shades of a single hue.

• Multicolored: Variegated yarn with two or more distinct hues or dyed in several different colors or shades of a single color.

• Self-striping: Yarn dyed with lengths of color that will automatically create stripes in a knitted or crocheted object often used in making socks.

• Marled: Yarn made from strands of different-colored yarn twisted together, sometimes in closely related hues.

Novelty Yarns

Novelty yarns are easy to recognize because their appearance is so different from traditional yarns:

• Bead /Sequin  - Found in nearly all weights, these yarns are exactly what the name implies – yarn accented with beads or sequins or both. Used in all types of crafting, trims, scarves, handbags, etc.

•  Bouclé: This highly bumpy, textured yarn is composed of loops.  It can be made of any type of fiber and is usually created with three plies, or strands, wrapped around each other. The bumpy texture is created by spinning one of the three plies more loosely than the other two. This single loose ply can often start to unravel while knitting or crocheting, causing the whole strand to split and snag. Extra care must be taken to ensure the high quality of the finished product.

• Chenille - This yarn has an attractive appearance and velvety texture and can be found in several thicknesses. The soft, fuzzy surface of chenille yarns resembles pipe cleaners and is created with a fabric cut into narrow strips resembling a yarn. When the fabric is cut, the raw edges become very fuzzy and produce the chenille appearance.

• Eyelash/ Faux fur: Also called fun fur, eyelash is made of polyester fiber with a furry texture resembling eyelashes. These yarns are made of a thin central ply surrounded by short or long "hairs." They come in a wide range of colors including multicolored and metallic.  . Projects made from this type of yarn have a soft, furry texture which hide the individual  stitches making a great yarn for projects like plush animals though it is is more difficult to work with.

• Railroad ribbon/Ladder Yarn: Has tiny “tracks” or “rungs” of fiber strung between two parallel strands of thread  resembling  railroad track or  ladder. The material at the center can be metallic, beaded, or otherwise adorned. This type of yarn is more often used to create trim or embellishments than to knit or crochet entire garments.

• Ribbon Yarn – This yarn resembles ribbon hence the name. It is often made from synthetic fibers and tends to have great elasticity. Some varieties are flat, while others are tubular. Both types can be used to create garments with lots of stretch and give.

• Slub/Pom Pom Yarns - been purposely spun with slubs or pom poms (thicker sections along the yarn). While it was once seen only as a defect, slub yarn is now intentionally created to give fabric more personality. However, slubs tend to reduce the durability of the project as the yarn inherently has weak spots.

Some novelty yarns can be tricky to work with. Others can be downright difficult. Identifying individual stitches in highly textured yarns is difficult, if not impossible, making it hard to fix mistakes or rip out stitches. Double stranding (using another yarn as a base) can make these yarns easier to work with when crocheting or knitting.

Measurement

Yarn quantities are usually measured by weight in ounces or grams. In the United States, Canada and Europe, skeins of yarn  are sold by weight. Common sizes include 25 g, 50 g, and 100 g skeins. Some companies also primarily measure in ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and eight-ounce skeins. These measurements are taken at a standard temperature and humidity, because yarn can absorb moisture from the air.

The actual length of the yarn contained in a ball or skein can vary due to the heaviness of the fiber and the thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50 g skein of fingering weight yarn may contain several hundred yards, while a 50 g skein of bulky yarn may contain only 65 yards.

There are several thicknesses of yarn, also referred to as weight. This is not to be confused with the measurement and/or weight mentioned above. The Craft Yarn Council of America is making an effort to promote a standardized industry system for measuring this, numbering the weights from 0 (finest) to 6 (heaviest).  

The name of the yarn weight type refers to the thickness of knitted or crocheted material it creates.  For example, the thickness of garments made with sport weight yarn is considered similar to the fabric associated with sportswear.

The names and corresponding numbers  for the various weights of yarn from finest to thickest are:

• 0 – Lace; Cobweb;  10 Count Crochet thread  - The lightest weight of yarn. Used to make lace, doilies and other delicate items. 

• 1 – Baby; Sock; Fingering  - A very lightweight yarn used for babywear, socks, and other delicate items.UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 3 ply, 4 ply, 5 ply, jumper weight 
• 2 – Baby; Sport  -  A light weight yarn used for babywear, sweaters, and lighter throws. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 8 ply 
• 3 – Light Worsted; Double-Knit (or DK ) - Used for baby and light-weight adult garments.  UK/Australia approximate equivalent: DK.   Worsted is named for the village of Worstead in Norfolk, England.
• 4 – Worsted; Afghan;  Aran (or heavy worsted) - The most popular weight for knitting and crocheting. An ideal weight for throws and many adult garments. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 10 ply, Aran weight  The name of Aran yarn comes from the heavyweight  sweater traditionally knit on the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland.
•  5 - Chunky; Craft; Rug - Heavier than worsted weight, bulky yarn works up quickly and easily for such things as hats, scarves, and throws. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 13 ply
• 6 - Bulky; Roving  - A very heavy yarn, about twice as thick as worsted weight. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 14 ply 

This naming convention is more descriptive than precise and many disagree about the interpretations between the sizes.

A more precise measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (WPI). The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler with no gaps and the number of wraps that fit in an inch are counted.  

Average WPI are as follows:

0 – Lace; Cobweb; 10 Count Crochet Thread	18+
1 – Baby; Sock; Fingering	16
2 – Baby; Sport	14
3 – Light Worsted; DK	11-12
4 – Worsted; Afghan; Aran	8-9
5 - Chunky; Craft; Rug	7
6 - Bulky; Roving	6 or less

Labels on yarn often include information on gauge, known in the UK as tension, which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per cm on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook. The proposed standardization uses a four-by-four inch/ten-by-ten cm knitted or crocheted square, with the resultant number of stitches across and rows high made by the suggested tools on the label to determine the gauge.

In Europe, textile engineers often use the unit tex, which is the weight in grams of a kilometer of yarn, or decitex, which is a finer measurement corresponding to the weight in grams of 10 km of yarn. Many other units have been used over time by different industries.

Some yarn retail stores try to help the customer choose yarn by attaching a sample knitted square to the shelf holding each display of a particular weight of yarn, sometimes provided by the manufacturer. These samples are knit in the industry standard four-by-four inch / ten-by-ten centimeter gauge. Samples help the buyer by showing them the texture and thickness of the finished knit fabric.

Thanks to The Yarn Barn for use of yarn photos. They have a huge variety of all the yarns discussed here at some of the lowest prices online with two day shipping. 

I welcome any questions or comments.